Saturday, 19 December 2015

Part 7 Half a Car Wheels and back bulkhead/seat

Part 7 Half a Car Wheels and back bulkhead/seat 

once we have the motor mount in place and the alignment is in the right place the drive shaft extension can be slid on to the trans axle. securing the extension to the motor i drilled a 6mm hole on the drill press through the extension using a vblock clamped down. and drilled in to the motor axle by hand using the hole in the extension as a guide. this worked ok then taped it and used an m6 screw to hold them in place and that's that all good 



the wheel are slid over the shaft and mocked up with the shaft collars on then the axle is cut very slowly by hand :( to the right length. 
in the below Picture you can see the extension installed on the motor


the the bulk head was cut to fit and screwed in place on to 18mm square battons


the upper photo is what the bulk head and the cowl with at the front is the start of the nose cone


and this is from the back of the car 

please feel free to ask any questions i 
Paul 

Thursday, 10 December 2015

Part 6 Half a Car Installing the Motor and Back Axle.

Part 6 Half a Car Installing the Motor and Back Axle.

This is the start of the motor mount, its a 400mm by 600mm by 9mm MDF using the old motor mount from the scooter i used this to drill the holes in the right place so the bolts lined up with the motor mounts. there is a nut holding the bolt in place. then a nut washer rubber bushing washer and a nut on top this holds all in place the nut in the middle can be moved up and down to set the height of the motor.


Lower Photos you can see the nut arrangement better the rubber bushing act as damper for the motor


there needs to be a slit cut in to the ~MDF as the gear box sits a bit low 


upper photo has the slit cut in to it i think its the for the gearing for the Diff 


upper photo the motor is sitting on the damper and the upper nut so this can be raised up and down for the drive shaft. this takes a bit of faffing as the motor needs to be level for the shaft once this is in place and there is no more adjusting to do it can be screwed down to the tub 


next time non to shore as i need to find the photos as with google and backup it takes a lot of 
scrolling to find them as it was almost 3 years a go i started building this 

Paul 

Wednesday, 9 December 2015

Follow me on FaceBook/instagram and Twitter

You can now follow me on facebook and instagram and Twitter


Instagram
https://www.instagram.com/dad_sworkshop/



www.facebook.com/dadsworksh0p

Paul :)

Tuesday, 8 December 2015

Part 5 Half a Car Installing the Motor and Back Axle


 Part 5 Half a Car Installing the Motor and Back Axle.

first of all a set of 20mm id bearings are needed, Ebay is the best bet. surface mounted like the photo below do the job well. other parts needed are

Bering 20MM id
4x 10mm bolts
4x 10mm nuts
8x washers
20mm od aluminum tube


the 20mm tub is used to make shore the bearings are installed level, the way this is done is to place the tube in the 20mm holes drilled into the tub and check the level with a bubble stick. if this is level 
this is good, slide the tube half way out and place the bearings on the tube and push them ot the inside of the tub i used some double sided tape to hold them to the tub so i can remove the tube and drill the holes.

Side note: the bottom of the tub is flat so place this on a flat surface and check for level. 


Once the holes have been drilled place the  tube and the bolts in place check for level again and do up the bolts, remove the tube and hay presto... :)


to get the hight of the motor this may be different depending on the donor scooter. I have a 17mm od shaft i need to extend this 200mm so i have 2 bits of 200mm long 20mm od 4mm thick this gives me a 16mm od. this i had bored out to 16.9 od by a local engineering company 


once the motor is in place i used 4 8mm bolts as standoffs to adjust the height of the motor. screwing the bolts up or down to adjust the motor position



this is what it looks like in part 6 i will show you how i make the motor mount 

Dad 

Random Stuff 01 www.Ifttt.com

Random stuff

I found www.ifttt.com just started using this it stands inbetween Blogger and Facebook.

it pushes blog posts to facebook it can do twitter as well and many others

dad This is also to test it :)

Dadsworkshop Part 4 half a car the Cowl Part 2

Part 3 Half a car (lotus 7 Build) The Cowl Part 2

The top of the cowl is made in 3 parts the top, left side , right side. The top is flexi 6mm MDF glued and pined, as they were small i pre drilled and put a drop of crazy glue on the pin and taped it in to place. This held ok with some clamps.the sides are done the same way.


this is what the side view looks like 


there will be an over hang that will need to filled and sanded. 


More pics 

Clamping Pics (keep scrolling I am not done yet)



(top) it is taking shape 
Bottom this was filled with a lot of filler and then loads of sanding by hand what i would have given 
for a DA sander at this point 


Below i used a steel bar to check the profile of the back to the front of the tub


this gave me a good line for the bonnet later on 


this has taken 2 or 3 weeks of messing around to get right and sanded smooth. at this time i was still playing round with using fiber glass and making plugs and looking at making reinforced fiberglass parts later on in the project i get to this after a lot of research after never doing this before

if you need more information or help i am happy to help any one that would like to make one its not hard i promise

Dad

Tuesday, 1 December 2015

Dadsworkshop Part 3 half a car the Cowl

Part 3 Half a car (lotus 7 Build) The Cowl Part 1

Getting started with the cowl, this was a bit of a mission to start with getting the dimension right
after a bit of searching around the net i managed to get some dimensions to get an ish shape and had to make some alterations to give a bit more room for legs


so after cutting the template out i managed to get a template that worked with the size of the tub


below, i cut the base to i had the start of the bottom of the cowl this will then be used to mark up the depth

once mocking up the template on the tub and making shore the lines of the tub looked right



it was time to cut the cowl using a jugsaw and a bit of sanding by hand :( what i should have done is to make a template and used a router and a pattern bit so i could have made a set of them because later on i will have to make another one, i should have done this with most of the parts but this was 3 years a go, hindsight 


so after cutting sanding, i cut an angle on some soft wood and screwed and glud the blocks in place
the back (below) was a pain to get the height right it needed a shallow slope so it would match the bonnet if i remeber this is a 3 inch high at the high point and i had to sant it to the right shape in place. this part was sanded 3 or 4 more times to get the right shape as I went.


after adding a batton at the back with yet again more screws and glue i had the start of a cowl

Next Post will be about the Cowl part 2 as this was a long thing

Dad

A Dads Work shop / Getting started part 2


Part 2 Reinforcing the tub of the half a car (lotus 7)

reinforcing the tub is a must as MDF is not the greatest for putting screws in to the end grain, putting screws in to the end or side grain will split it and being 9mm thick is not ideal. using a 18mm square batoning around the edges helps using glue and screws about every 4 inches, belt and braces this has held well with holding the 2 boys and me on my own.

using car body filler for the gaps also helps reinforce the joints as it is epoxy bases. i have used steel bracketing on the joint from the cockpit to the engine bay to reinforce this joint. looking back i would cut the angel in the table saw and glue screw and filler it should be as strong


the back is reinforced the same way is the more or less using 2 part epoxy and screws
the back axle holes are drilled to 20mm before fitting to the tub as this will align the holes in the same place both sides, this worked ok but later on had to go to 22mm as this gave a bit of wiggle room

this gives a better view of the tub, its very strong and only really supported by the cawl in top with 2 dowels and 4 screws. this later on i will show how i have had to change this as when i started my son was 7 and now he is 11 so he doesn't fit it now but the 2 smalls fit

till my next blog get out there and make something

Dad